The Habit of Smoking Among African Models: A Cultural and Psychological Exploration

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As someone who has attended fashion shows in Ghana since 2010, I’ve often observed a curious trend: male models lighting up cigarettes before or after their walks on the runway. This behavior, often seen in certain circles of African fashion, has prompted me to reflect on its significance. Is it a personal choice, a way to calm performance anxiety, or simply an attempt to project a “bad boy” image?

This raises a broader question: Why does smoking appear so prevalent in some subcultures of African fashion, particularly among models? To explore this, we need to understand the historical, cultural, and psychological factors that contribute to this habit.

The Legacy of Colonialism and Tobacco in Africa

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The introduction of smoking to Africa can be traced back to colonial times when European powers cultivated tobacco as a cash crop. By the early 20th century, tobacco products, including cigarettes, were marketed as symbols of sophistication, modernity, and success. As part of a broader Western cultural influence, the images of cigarette-smoking Hollywood stars and the Marlboro Man—symbols of power and masculinity—resonated strongly in Africa.

For many African men, especially those in urban centers, smoking became synonymous with adult sophistication and toughness. This perception was reinforced by films, music, and advertising that associated smoking with confidence and rebellion. Over time, these cultural ideals made their way into African subcultures, including the world of fashion.

The Pressure to Perform and ‘Nerves of Steel’

In the high-stress world of modeling, the pressure to perform under scrutiny can be immense. The runway is not just about looking good; it’s about exuding confidence and poise, often under the gaze of hundreds or even thousands. For some models, smoking may act as a way to manage performance anxiety. The ritual of lighting a cigarette before or after a runway walk may offer a temporary escape from the nerves and stress associated with maintaining a perfect public persona.

In an industry where image is everything, smoking may also provide a sense of control. It becomes a coping mechanism for dealing with the intense scrutiny that models often face, whether it’s from industry insiders, the audience, or social media. This reliance on smoking to “stay calm” is psychologically rooted in the desire to self-soothe in high-pressure situations.

Cultural Influence and Peer Pressure

In many African societies, smoking has historically been linked to rites of passage and adulthood. In certain fashion circles, it carries a certain social cachet—seen as a way to bond with peers, signal one’s place in the industry, or even distinguish oneself from others. For young, aspiring models trying to make a name for themselves, adopting habits like smoking can sometimes feel like a necessary step to fit in or stand out.

Additionally, there’s the issue of peer pressure. The desire to be perceived as confident, edgy, or rebellious is particularly strong in fashion, where personal image is often as important as talent. Models may adopt smoking as a way to project this image, especially when they look up to more established figures who embody these traits.

The Globalization of the ‘Bad Boy’ Persona

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The “bad boy” image, heavily popularized by Western celebrities, has also found its way into African pop culture. Public figures, especially in music and fashion, are often seen smoking as a symbol of rebellion and non-conformity. For African models, smoking may become a way to emulate this global persona, signaling that they are part of a larger cultural movement that values defiance and toughness.

This cultural adoption of the “bad boy” image has become a form of self-presentation—less about actual need and more about fitting into a globalized narrative of style, toughness, and coolness.

Health Risks and Changing Perspectives

While the cultural and social roots of smoking are undeniable, it’s important to recognize the profound health risks associated with it. Increased awareness about the dangers of smoking, from respiratory issues to cancer, has led to a growing shift in perception. More models and fashion industry influencers are choosing to reject smoking, opting for healthier, more sustainable lifestyles.

With African fashion gaining increasing global recognition, the industry is beginning to embrace not just creativity, but also health and wellness. The image of smoking as a sign of coolness is being reevaluated, and the next generation of models is increasingly focused on presenting themselves in ways that align with both artistic expression and personal well-being.

Breaking the Cycle

The habit of smoking among African models is a complex issue rooted in history, culture, and psychology. However, as African fashion continues to evolve and gain global prominence, there’s an opportunity to redefine what it means to be a successful model. Moving away from outdated habits like smoking allows African models to embrace their confidence, creativity, and authenticity without relying on stimulants or unhealthy coping mechanisms.

The African fashion industry stands at a crossroads, and the choices made today will shape its future. As the industry grows, it’s important to recognize that being a model in Africa can—and should—be about more than just cultivating an image. It’s about health, empowerment, and sustainability, and the future of African fashion lies in breaking free from old, harmful norms.